Background

Over the last 7 years or so I've become completely obsessed with birds in flight.

It's got so bad that I basically refuse to photograph a bird unless it is flying... I spend all my spare time in pursuit of 'that' flight shot moment.

 I've spent a lot of money, which could otherwise have been put to good use, but I do not regret it at all. The happiness and friends it has given me is not measurable financially.

I have wanted to write a flight shot article for a while now so here it is. It's not long, technical or wordy & it's not meant for advanced photographers (there are much better ones out there)...I wanted it to be a readable and informative introduction to those wishing to try out this form of bird photography. If nothing else, I hope it whets your appetite a little!!

Barn Owl at dusk

TIP- watch birds and study their behaviour, it makes predicting special moments slightly easier

Black-headed Gull fly-catching

TIP - Check out ALL birds, I reckon a common bird can be just as interesting as a mega rarity.

What's the score?

Flight & action bird photography is very easy & very difficult.

A strange statement? No.

It is easy because rules applicable for portrait work (composition, intersection of thirds, shine of eye etc) do not have to apply. You can simply point & shoot at a mega quick moment in bird time to gain instant flight shots. However,

it's difficult because:

1. You need to get close to your subject (like portrait work)

2. You need to have the fieldwork skills, using your gear extremely well to be able to capture such quick moments in time.

&

3. To make it stand out from the rest, you'll need to create more interest in the finished image. This may involve bird interaction, dynamic posture, unusual behaviour...the list goes on...this is when it starts to get hard!

That is why I love my chosen form of bird photography...on balance, it's SO difficult...GREAT!!

These are some of my images

& I'll tell you how to get some similar ones.

Rock Pipit.

I love Golden Plovers...who needs rarities?

Exquisite & elegant birds - Common Terns are top birds for me, they offer great opportunities for flight & action photography.

TIP - Check out Terns fishing when there's no wind...they have to work hard to hover & their wing shape can be really dramatic

Swallows - underrated birds!

TIP - Get friendly with local landowners (preferably a farmer). Access to their land could be a great resource for you. EXTRA TIP - I always make it a priority to have a photo mounted & signed, which I give to landowners if I get a decent image of a bird on their land. It has ALWAYS gone down brilliantly & strengthens the relationship between you both.

TIP - Persevere & be realistic - I spent all winter in 2004, studying and photographing these Owls...very often, good results have to be worked for. 2012 update - you may not have to work hard anymore for Shorties (well at least for this year anyway)...2011-2012 has been a BUMPER year throughout the Country (Northants, Cheshire, Conwy & Lincs to name but a few Counties with LOADS) & they have been GREAT!!

My most favourite birds - Short-eared Owls...The best! Taken using a Canon camera

TIP - if you want to nail birds looking straight at you as they fly at speed, I rate Canon above Nikon for head-on flight shots.

As things currently stand, I do not think that a Nikon setup would have nailed the Shortie above (Sorry Nikon).

GEAR

What ever your budget, what ever your gear, work it to it's best abilities. I honestly believe that great images can be gained irrespective of money thrown at purchases. This addiction we call bird photography is so expensive...I know, I've spent much on gear and the problem is that Canon, Nikon, Sigma etc are always bringing out 'new' models and lenses. We have to draw the line somewhere and buying the most expensive gear will not guarantee good results alone.

Camera - My shopping list of features to look for:

1. Autofocus system - should be top of anyone's list interested in flight and action bird photography. The good news is that both Canon & Nikon offer great autofocus systems now on semi-pro. as well as pro. cameras...you don't need the top models anymore. I like lots of focus points to choose from, so would not recommend a camera with less than 9.

2. Frames per second - rule as far as I'm concerned. Go for something with 5-6 frames per second as a minimum. Anything above this is super-excellent and will allow you to capture mindboggling moments if you're lucky...not essential though.

3. Fast processing - the ability for my camera to transfer that newly captured information onto a memory card asap without locking me out is crucial. In my early days of flight photography I had cameras which remained locked out for 1-3 seconds at a time, which does not sound like much, but meant I had no way of capturing long sequences of action...so painful!!

.

BG Photo Of The Year 2009, all thanks to a camera which did not lock out too quickly, allowing me to keep on shooting (Canon 1D Mark 2).

Lenses - My shopping list of features to look for:

1. Aperture - spend as much as you can on a 'fast' lens. By this I mean one with an f stop of f4 or lower. The problem is that they cost so much money, so if funds don't permit, go for one with f5.6...the price drops dramatically. On a nice sunny day it should not matter too much anyway.

2. Prime or zoom? - I don't think you can beat a good prime lens (300 or 500mm), this is because they have no moving parts, however, there are many good zoom lenses out there...BUT beware, a typical 80-400mm or 100-400mm zoom lens will have a 'sweet' point at about 300mm not 400mm. Such lenses will always be slightly slower at focusing than a prime lens also...only a split second maybe, but this form of photography is all about speed...fast cameras and fast lenses.

3. Image stabilisation - this has been a great advance in recent years and I would always recommend lenses with it. It offers you more options according to the weather conditions. It is not the end of the world if your lens does not have it, indeed I have successfully used non IS lenses for flight photography.

Other crucial bits - My camera head and tripod set me a good few hundred pounds, the Whimberley head on a Gitzo tripod. This is a huge financial outlay but it is necessary to spend £300 plus when using a big telephoto prime lens. After all, it's what thousands of pounds worth of gear is actually sitting on?

I see many photographers struggling with lightweight tripods and small heads..I've been there myself & it's not a good long-term place to be. I really do regard these two components to be as important as any other part of my flight set up & if you do buy a 500mm would urge you to take the hit and buy both (or similar), Manfrotto are particularly cost effective and good alternatives now popular with bird photographers...I've heard of no real complaints from anyone.

To Monopod or not?

Don't do it...well, not to support a 500 or 600mm lens for flight photography anyway. I have tried it and there is no way you could ever persuade me that it works. You MAY get away with it for really slow moving flying birds but anything else is impossible. If someone can get consistently great action & flight shots using a monopod under a big telephoto lens I would love to shake his/her hand!

RECOMMENDATION - You don't have to spend so much additional money, buy a handheld lens like the Canon or Nikon 300mm f4, the Canon has image stabilization, both are good lenses for flight photography. I would not recommend the Nikon 80-400mm VR (sorry Nikon), it is simply too slow at auto focusing.

Memory cards - Compact flash is good. These cards offer fast read/write times. Buy yourself the best specification you can. However, beware, the new fast range of cards are UDMA enabled giving super fast response times, but if your camera is not similarly UDMA enabled you will not get the benefit of the card's technology.

TIP - Buy Sandisk Extreme series compact flash cards and if your camera is UDMA enabled, make sure the card is also. Lock-out will almost become a thing of the past...HURRAY!!

Camera Settings

Exposure Mode - I always shoot in Aperture Priority mode. Fast shutter speed is the name of the game & with this mode you will get the fastest shutter speed available wherever you point your camera.

TIP - Look at the worst case scenario in terms of shutter speed available by checking dark backgrounds which a bird might appear from or to. I like a minimum shutter speed of 1/1250 of a second, if you've not got it step up the ISO accordingly. What's the point of having a 'clean image' if the shutter speed does not allow a nailed flight shot?

(Theory applied - Sparrowhawk with Snipe, BG Photo Of The Year 2007 - I knew I had sufficient shutter speed over the dark grassed areas).

Auto focus Mode -shoot A1 Servo mode in Canon & continuous in Nikon.

Exposure Control - I always shoot based on the evaluative metering.

Drive Mode - I always shoot in High Mode.

(I managed to get six frames in the bag as this fabulous Barn Owl dived. However, this was the only one in focus...be prepared for a modest hit rate, even with a Pro. specification camera).

ISO Settings - I go quite high with my ISO settings, it does introduce noise however.

Gannet...what great birds! I was shooting high ISO, but no noise!

Remember - noise is much more of a problem on dull days, this means that if you're a shutter speed junkie like me, you can shoot with a ridiculously high speed on a high ISO setting, on a brighter day, with little noise!!

When noise is a problem:

 TIP - Use image cleaning software like NEAT IMAGE (as per 'My Essential Tip' on my home page) or NOISE NINJA to clean up images taken at high ISO levels.

Remember, high shutter speed is GOOD, do what is necessary within reason to obtain it!!

Focus Point Selection - 95% of the time I use all focus points (known in the trade as 'The ring of fire'). NOTE - many entry level cameras have 9 point auto focus systems & having owned some myself, I know that the only way to track moving birds is to assign the centre focus point only. Even then it can then be frustratingly difficult. RECOMMENDATION - If you are serious about mastering flight photography, sell your car, wife or kidney to buy a fast semi or full pro camera...you'll always struggle otherwise. Currently, second-hand Canon EOS 1D Mark 3s are going for approx. £1,300 on Ebay for example...great image quality on a fast pro. specification camera.

Fieldwork Technique

1. Don't rely too heavily on autofocus - There will be situations where autofocus will fail you.

I knew from past experiences, the only way to nail a bird just about to fly from a perch is to switch off auto focus & manually focus on it. THEN...wait and hope your reactions are up to the job.

2. Stay close to your camera - I am always amazed when I see photographers rushing back to their cameras to nail a flight shot. I stay very close to my camera at all times. You need all the time available to nail a great flight shot.

TIP - when out for the day by yourself photographing birds, strap your camera (lens attached!!!) into the passenger seat...I've managed some great shots as I've seen opportunities whilst driving to my intended photographic site.

Hovering Kingfisher - split second timing needed

3. Anticipation - The difference between a 'nearly' and a nailed flight shot is being able to pick up the bird as early as possible.

TIP - Learn to see further away, you'll have a couple of valuable seconds to compose and lock on to a bird.

(Coots doing what they do best - this was the start of a prolonged session of violence!!)

Shelducks in Spring at Minsmere RSPB, Suffolk - I saw these birds a long way off. Even so, they covered a huge amount of ground so quickly & I had very little time to react before the opportunity was over.

4. Do not preview in the field - known in the trade as 'chimping', I am as guilty as the next but it really can be SO painful as a Peregrine flies past carrying a Lapwing, and your buddies alert you to it as you're thumbing through your 'new' images!!

Little Egret - I remember this moment, photographers in the same hide as me wished they had not been admiring their own work during the day's shoot so much.

TIP - save yourself loads of money and don't buy 'gadgets' which might distract you in the field. At one time portable hard drives with great display screens were popular...most photographers missed photo opportunities viewing them in the field!!

5. Use all the speed available - Irrespective of make & specification of camera, use the most frames per second available. Birds in flight can be so fast that your eye doesn't register what's really happening.

(Lapwing - Photographed at speed as it displayed in Spring...this happened too quickly to recall it with the naked eye, my camera nailed it though)

6. Do not dismiss common birds - such as Greylags which are out there in the wild, I am not ashamed to say that I like them!! Why not photograph unpopular birds? If for no other reason than to fine tune your camera skills? You can then use these new skills to nail that once in a lifetime shot that people will always remember!!

TIP - Don't be a snob...use your garden, local parks and water gardens, they can be full of wild birds and because they are used to people, can be photographed at close range.

7. Stay true to flight  & action photography - I have seen many photographers chopping & changing between portrait and flight work during a day's shoot. The result tends to be mixed fortunes. This is because the camera settings are so very different. I am 99% dedicated to flight work & my camera settings stay the same (set up for speed)...it makes things so much easier.

(Shoveler - Anticipated with camera set for flight)

8. Using hides - I've tried using dome & other hides and I have to say...it is not a good idea (generally). Your field of view tends to be very restricted and before you know it, the birds are past you. Cars make slightly better hides for slower flight work as you have a much greater field of view & can therefore anticipate and compose more quickly.

9. Set up strategically - When birds take off they generally do so into the wind..use this knowledge accordingly. Many photographers make a bee line for public hides at Reserves such as Titchwell RSPB in Norfolk. I spend much of my time here set up on the main path down to the beach (always ensuring I am not blocking anybody's use of the path). Many birds fly freely in front of you and because you are not crammed into a hide, you see them coming a long way off.

(Pintail)

10. Be a bit picky - a few years ago I shot at absolutely everything (and must admit I thoroughly enjoyed it, although many birders in public hides did not), now I try to visualise my images before  going for the shot...not always possible & I have to admit that grab shots are still (& always will be) on the cards. The point is, there are now so many flight shots out there on public display, do yourself justice by putting forward the best efforts you can. Sky shots particularly are now common place (like my Pintail above!!!), but can still be pleasing all the same.

Red Kite at Gigrin Farm - with so many Kite flight shots available on a plate here, try to hold back for something slightly different.

11. Foster good relations with fellow photographers - I always try to pass on info to other bird photographers when out & about (the only time I do not is when the bird or site might be very sensitive), usually the favour is returned, if not then, then one day when you meet again. I strongly recommend such mutually beneficial action...everyone's a winner!!

12. Don't stand out like a sore thumb - Use camouflage gear, or simply dark/subdued colours. I use dark clothing but either is good. One thing is for sure, if you sport bright colours when out, you will have your work cut out getting close to birds.

TIP - Go and see my friend Kevin Keatley at Wildlife Watching Supplies by following his web link below...he'll sort you out!

The Best Gear To Buy??

My Recommended Starter Flight Photography Equipment - 'Money very well spent...until you get to the mandatory UPGRADE ZONE!!!' (AND YOU WILL).

Camera - Canon EOS 40/50/60D, Nikon 7000D.

Lens - Canon EF 300mm f4 or 100-400mm, Sigma 150-500mm, Nikon 300mm f4.

My Recommended Upgraded Flight Photography Equipment - 'You're entering a seriously good flight & action work zone!'

Camera - Canon EOS 60D or 7D, Nikon D300S.

Lens - Canon EF 300mm f4, Canon 400mm f5.6  or Nikon 300mm f4.

Teleconverter - Canon/Nikon 1.4x.

My Top Flight Photography Equipment - 'The bee's knees'.

Camera - Canon EOS 7D or 1D Mark 3/4, Nikon D300S or D3S.

Lens - Canon EF 500mm f4, Nikon 500mm f4.

Teleconverter - Canon/Nikon 1.4x.

Tripod - Gitzo Carbon Fibre or aluminium.

Head - Whimberley Gimbal or Manfrotto equivalent.

Teal in flight - a real target bird for me...they're small and fast, nail them and other birds become so much easier as you develop your flight photography skills!

Gannets at Bempton Cliffs - June 2010

Above all, enjoy your photography. It can be SO competitive that one can lose sight of why we started doing it?

I guarantee that if you want it badly enough, put the time in and respect fellow bird photographers and crucially the birds, you will gain some great flight shot images to treasure for life.

Best wishes,

Richard - March 2011.

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